在读报时，发现了Lee Siew Hua所撰写的上海旅行推荐记，所以今天就把这个部分记录下来，留在今年夏天去上海旅游看。
1. Chic old Shanghai 别致的老上海
Within the Shanghai metropolis are trendy enclaves made for lingering and social media. These pedestrianised precincts within the colonial French Concession evoke the romance of Shanghai in the 1920s, which was also a time of political awakening in China.
在上海这座大都市大都会内，有许多时尚的聚集地，专为流连和社交媒体打造。这些位于法租界内的城市化街区唤起了20世纪20年代上海的浪漫，那也是中国政治觉醒的时期。
Tianzifang (Alley 210 Taikang Road) is a labyrinth of artsy shops, indie cafes and galleries. There is lots of whimsy here, with tiny shops selling made-in-Shanghai White Rabbit milk candy, floral teas and qipao. Residents still live here; homely laundry hangs from upper floors.
田子坊（泰康路210弄）是一个迷宫般的艺术商店，独立咖啡馆和画廊。这里有很多奇思妙想，小商店出售上海制造的大白兔奶糖、花茶和旗袍。居民们仍然住在这里;家常的洗衣房挂在楼上。
Soon, I get pleasantly lost in the nostalgic alleys lined by shikumen or “lane houses” built in the East-West architectural style of Old Shanghai. On WeChat, I ping my location to my Shanghainese guide, Richard, and we reconnect to plan our next stop: Stylish Xintiandi.
很快，我就愉快地迷失在由石库门或“巷屋”组成的怀旧小巷中，这些房子是按照老上海的东西建筑风格建造的。在微信上，我将我的位置发送给我的上海导游理查德，然后我们重新联系，计划我们的下一站：时尚新天地。
We drive over to Xintiandi, which is dotted with luxury brands such as Valentino and Jo Malone, and modern plazas like Xintiandi Style Shopping Centre. American fast-food chain Shake Shack and the Shanghai-born Boxing Cat microbrewery infuse casual vibes in this eclectic zone.
我们开车去了新天地，那里有华伦天奴和乔马龙等奢侈品牌，还有新天地时尚购物中心等现代化广场。美国快餐连锁店Shake Shack和上海出生的Boxing Cat微型啤酒厂为这个不拘一格的地区注入了休闲的氛围。
The cafe scene includes Hong Kong’s The Peninsula Boutique & Cafe (Unit 01, No. 16 Xintiandi North Li), where I enjoy a lobster roll, strawberry lemon basil pastry and world-class service in its pocket garden.
咖啡馆场景包括香港的半岛精品咖啡馆（新天地北里16号01室），我在那里享用了龙虾卷、草莓柠檬罗勒糕点，并在口袋花园里享受了世界一流的服务。
Significantly, Xintiandi is the hallowed site of the First National Congress of the Chinese Communist Party. In 1921, it convened secretly in a meeting hall, now a museum (No. 76 Xingye Road).
值得注意的是，新天地是党的一大召开圣地。1921年，它在一个会议厅（现在是博物馆）（兴业路76号）秘密召开。
Within walking distance from Xintiandi are the Sinan Mansions (51 Sinan Road), a cluster of French villas, high-end restaurants, galleries and gardens that convey Shanghai’s cosmopolitan allure.
从新天地步行即可到达希南公馆（希南路51号），这里聚集了法式别墅、高端餐厅、画廊和花园，传达着上海的国际化魅力。
Once home to high-ranking officials and luminaries such as Premier Zhou Enlai and opera artiste Mei Lanfang, it is still primarily residential.
这里曾经是周恩来总理和梅兰芳等高级官员和名人的住所，现在仍然主要是住宅。
Its year-round calendar, which includes a coffee festival and a night fair fusing culture and cuisine, makes it both an elegant tree-lined open museum and a contemporary scene.
它全年的日历，其中包括咖啡节和融合文化和美食的夜市，使其成为一个优雅的绿树成荫的开放式博物馆和当代景观。
2. Marriage market, spirited seniors 婚姻市场，精力充沛的老年人
Exploring on my own another day, I open the Trip.com app and chat with TripGenie: “Tell me about the marriage market in People’s Square, Shanghai. How do I get there?”
另一天，我独自探索，打开Trip.com应用程序，与TripGenie聊天：“告诉我上海人民广场的婚姻市场。“我怎么耍赖了？
In seconds, the AI assistant paints the scene and reels off pointers about the “blind date market” staged by hopeful parents and expedient brokers.在几秒钟内，人工智能助理描绘了场景，并对充满希望的父母和权宜的经纪人上演的“相亲市场”进行了指导。
“Every weekend, hundreds of parents gather in People’s Square with their children’s profiles, hoping to find suitable partners for marriage,” TripGenie tells me in a British accent while I scan the scrolling text on my mobile phone.“每个周末，数百名父母带着孩子的资料聚集在人民广场，希望找到合适的结婚对象，”TripGenie用英国口音告诉我，而我则在移动的手机上浏览滚动的文字。
“Parents display their children’s information on pieces of paper or umbrellas, including their age, height, education, occupation, and sometimes even their financial status.”“父母把孩子的信息放在纸片或雨伞上，包括他们的年龄，身高，教育，职业，有时甚至是他们的经济状况。
This is a useful preview before I foray there, especially since my Mandarin is basic and I am often solo. 这是一个有用的预览之前，我去那里，特别是因为我的普通话是基本的，我经常独奏。
I pass spirited seniors at a pop-up fashion show, make my way to a lotus pond at Renmin Park or People’s Square (20 Renmin Avenue), and check out the merry matchmaking corner filled with motivated seniors.我在一个弹出式时装秀上经过精力充沛的老年人，去人民公园或人民广场（人民大道20号）的一个荷花池，看看充满活力的老年人的快乐相亲角。
Perched on footstools, they display laminated profiles of their adult children. Eyes alert, fans in hand, they cheerily call out to onlookers like me.他们坐在脚凳上，展示着他们成年子女的分层侧面。他们眼睛警惕，手里拿着扇子，高兴地向像我这样的旁观者喊道。
Soon, I sit on a stone next to a wistful man waiting alone, a newcomer overwhelmed by the hubbub. Mr Tu is looking for a bride for his 32-year-old son, who had assured him that he was fine.很快，我坐在一块石头上，旁边是一个渴望的人独自等待，一个被喧闹淹没的新来者。涂先生正在为他32岁的儿子找新娘，儿子曾向他保证他很好。
“Impossible!” he told his son, as he recounts to me.“不可能！”他告诉他的儿子，他向我讲述。
His son’s story is a snapshot of China’s demographic crisis. A total of 4.74 million Chinese couples registered their marriage in the first three-quarters of 2024, CNN reported in November. This was a sharp decrease of 16.6 per cent from the same period in 2023.他儿子的故事是中国人口危机的缩影。据美国有线电视新闻网（CNN）11月报道，2024年前三季度，共有474万对中国夫妇登记结婚。较2023年同期大幅下降16.6%。
In tandem, China’s fertility rate has plummeted. The estimate is that fertility was at a record low of 1.09 in 2022. 与此同时，中国的生育率大幅下降。据估计，2022年的生育率为1.09的创纪录低点。
Chilling beside Mr Tu and me are two retirees, fresh from their morning walk. The more loquacious of the two seniors, who dons sunglasses and youthful Cozy Kat sneakers, tells me he once worked at Shanghai’s iconic Fairmont Peace Hotel. Tapping Google Translate, we linger, chatting about Singapore and China. 坐在我和屠先生旁边的是两个刚从清晨散步回来的退休人员。两位老人中比较健谈的那个戴着墨镜，穿着年轻的Cozy Kat运动鞋，他告诉我他曾经在上海标志性的费尔蒙和平饭店工作。点击谷歌翻译，我们逗留，谈论新加坡和中国。
3. Ethnic eats, regional restaurants3.民族美食，区域餐厅
My sumptuous dining in culinary capital Shanghai focuses mainly on regional cuisine. The quest begins at contemporary Xin Rong Ji (688 Nanjing West Road, Jingan, 200041) that specialises in the fresh and light cooking style of Zhejiang province on the eastern coast.我在美食之都上海的豪华餐饮主要集中在地方美食上。探索之旅始于当代的新荣记（静安区南京西路688号，200041），这家店专营浙江省东部沿海地区新鲜清淡的烹饪风格。
It is “almost Michelin”, says Trip.com public relations manager (South-east Asia) Dominic Leong, whose Shanghai-based foodie aunt recommended the restaurant. From its kitchen comes gourd stir-fried with silken tofu skin, boiled river shrimps, and crisp-tender salt-baked chicken presented on a parchment sheet.Trip.com公关经理（东南亚）多米尼克？梁（Dominic Leong）表示，这家餐厅“几乎是米其林餐厅”。梁的上海美食家阿姨推荐了这家餐厅。从厨房里出来的是用丝滑的豆腐皮炒的葫芦，煮河虾，和放在羊皮纸上的脆嫩的盐烤鸡。
Dessert is a surprise: baked Musang King Durian Puffs. The durian encased in Chinese-style flaky pastry tastes authentically complex. 甜点是一个惊喜：烤穆桑王榴莲泡芙。包在中式糕点里的榴莲味道非常复杂。
At the table, I whip out TripGenie, which tells me where else to find durians in Shanghai, including dessert shops and supermarkets, evidence of the Chinese appetite for the king of fruits. The Chinese scooped up 1.4 million tonnes of fresh durian imports from South-east Asia in 2023, up more than 70 per cent year on year.在餐桌上，我拿出了旅行精灵，它告诉我在上海还可以在哪里找到榴莲，包括甜品店和超市，这证明了中国人对水果之王的胃口。2023年，中国从东南亚进口了140万吨新鲜榴莲，同比增长超过70%。
For Shanghai delicacies, I go to Ren He Guan (407 Zhaojiabang Road). The signature dish is a casserole of crab meat and roe, all golden creaminess, that I pour onto hot rice. From the extensive crab menu, I also pick sheng jian bao – pan-fried dumplings – stuffed with juicy crab meat. 上海的美食，我去仁和馆（肇嘉浜路407号）。招牌菜是蟹肉和鱼子的砂锅，金黄色的奶油，我倒在热米饭上。从种类繁多的螃蟹菜单中，我还挑选了生煎包–一种用多汁蟹肉做馅的煎饺。
Braised pork belly is another signature at this unpretentious one-Michelin-starred eatery with retro booths and songstresses channelling the 1930s.红烧五花肉是这家朴实无华的米其林一星餐厅的另一个特色，餐厅里有复古的摊位和20世纪30年代的女歌手。
In Shanghai, visitors will also notice Uighur restaurants designed with roadside grills. My lunch at Sapar Uygur Restaurant (20 Yuyuan Road) starts with grilled Tiger Skin Pepper (with a bit of imagination, the char resembles tiger stripes). I also sample beef and mutton skewers, then valiantly contend with more meat: naan dunked in braised mutton.在上海，游客还会注意到带有路边烤架的维吾尔餐厅。我在萨帕维吾尔餐厅（愚园路20号）吃的午餐是从烤虎皮辣椒开始的（有点想象力，它看起来像老虎的条纹）。我还品尝了牛羊肉串，然后勇敢地与更多的肉竞争：馕浸在炖羊肉中。
Mutton is clearly the main event here. Diners can also order whole lamb, boiled lamb, mutton soup and more.羊肉显然是这里的重头戏。食客还可以点全羊、煮羊肉、羊肉汤等。
A fun, festive highlight is Yao Ji, which serves Dongbei food from the north-eastern provinces of Jilin, Liaoning and Heilongjiang. 一个有趣的，节日的亮点是姚记，供应东北吉林，辽宁和黑龙江省的东北食品。
Yao Ji (locations include 317-5 Changping Lu) is big on “tie guo dun” or “iron pot stew”, where ingredients are piled into a sunken, steaming wok at each table. 姚记（地址在昌平路317-5号）的特色菜是“铁锅炖”，每张桌子上的食材都堆在一个凹陷的、热气腾腾的锅里。
Reminiscent of hotpot, diners choose their stew base, such as the fragrantly spiced goose stock. Then everything goes into the giant pot, from the signature goose meat to dumplings, white cabbage, tofu, mushrooms, noodles, anything you fancy. 让人想起火锅，食客选择他们的炖肉基地，如香五香鹅汤。然后所有的东西都放进这个大锅里，从招牌鹅肉到饺子，白色白菜，豆腐，蘑菇，面条，任何你喜欢的东西。
Reclining on floral cushions, with rows of decorative corn and red lanterns suspended above, and singing, dancing waiters in the aisle, I am transported to far-flung Dongbei.
靠在花垫子上，上面悬挂着一排排装饰性的玉米和红灯笼，过道上唱歌跳舞的服务员，我被带到了遥远的东北。
4. Urban stories4.都市故事
For a deep dive into Shanghai’s story, I recommend the interactive Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Hall (100 Renmin Avenue).要深入了解上海的故事，我推荐互动式的上海城市规划展览馆（人民大道100号）。
Ignore its uninspiring name and occasional Red Culture bravado. It compellingly reveals an enlightened, free-spirited, diverse Shanghai that captures the global imagination. Like Singapore, the Chinese city was a former fishing village that transformed from mudflats to metropolis.忽略它的不起眼的名字和偶尔的红色文化虚张声势。它令人信服地揭示了一个开明、自由、多元化的上海，吸引了全球的想象力。和新加坡一样，这座中国城市也曾是一个渔村，从滩涂变成了大都会。
The centrepiece of the museum is a monumental model of downtown Shanghai that visitors can walk around for a panoramic view. This display is augmented by a circular screen with 3D animations of the future Shanghai.博物馆的中心是一个巨大的上海市中心的模型，游客可以四处走走，饱览全景。这个显示器由一个圆形屏幕与未来上海的3D动画增强。
Also, wander on a recreated Shanghai street from the 1930s, for a glimpse of vintage teahouses, trams and cast-iron China-made Tiger Stoves. The retro street connects to the underground Di Mei shopping plaza.此外，漫步在一条重建自20世纪30年代的上海街道上，瞥见古老的茶馆、有轨电车和中国制造的铸铁老虎炉。这条复古的街道与地下的迪美购物广场相连。
In essence, the museum portrays Shanghai as the cradle of Chinese industry and finance, the nexus of culture and technology, and a combination of skyscrapers and shikumen lanes. It also highlights Shanghai as the birthplace of the Communist Party of China and traces the nation’s revolutionary footprints. 从本质上讲，博物馆将上海描绘成中国工业和金融的摇篮，文化和技术的纽带，摩天大楼和石库门小巷的结合。它还突出了上海作为中国共产党的诞生地，并追溯了国家的革命足迹。
For more urban stories of Shanghai, a Singaporean real-estate professional previously stationed in the city suggested quick hops to the Qipu Road Clothing Wholesale Market (No. 303 Qipu Road) and Raffles City Shanghai mall (268 Xizang Zhong Road).要了解更多上海的城市故事，一位曾在上海工作过的新加坡房地产专业人士建议快速前往七浦路服装批发市场（七浦路303号）和来福士广场（西藏中路268号）。
At Qipu Road, the warren of clothing shops epitomises China’s reputation as the factory of the world. Fashionable rip-offs and local designs can be picked up for a song. Fancy a pair of office-smart pants for 32 yuan? Polo shirts, hoodies, jeans, socks, lacy dresses, trinkets? The clothes here are cheaper than at other retail rivals, but pricier than online purchases.在七浦路，拥挤的服装店集中体现了中国作为世界工厂的声誉。 时尚的剽窃和当地的设计可以拿起一首歌。想买一条32元的办公室智能裤子吗？波罗衫，帽衫，牛仔裤，袜子，蕾丝裙，小饰品？这里的衣服比其他零售竞争对手便宜，但比网上购买贵。
Over the years, Singapore has amassed dense connections to China, and the Raffles City Shanghai mall is one facet.多年来，新加坡与中国建立了密集的联系，上海来福士广场购物中心就是一个方面。
Developed by Singapore’s CapitaLand, the mall is ideally sited next to the Nanjing Road shopping district and the historic Bund. 该商场由新加坡凯德置地开发，地理位置优越，毗邻南京路购物区和历史悠久的外滩。
Like Singapore’s Raffles City, the Shanghai counterpart is a place of glitz and local flavours, filled with designer brands and little shops peddling street snacks.与新加坡的莱佛士广场一样，上海的莱佛士广场也是一个浮华和地方特色的地方，到处都是设计师品牌和兜售街头小吃的小店。
5. The Bund by day and night5.白天和黑夜的外滩
The waterfront Bund is best experienced after dark on a river cruise. As my vessel drifts down the Huangpu River, I admire the romantic colonial-era Bund in Puxi on the western bank, and the illuminated skyscrapers of Pudong on the eastern side. These are double portraits of nostalgic and new Shanghai.外滩最好在天黑后乘坐游船游览。当我的船沿着黄浦江漂流时，我欣赏着西岸浦西浪漫的殖民时代外滩，和东岸浦东灯火通明的摩天大楼。这是怀旧与新上海的双重写照。
The Trip.com Group is hosting the cruise, and chief executive Jane Sun tells her global guests: “When I grew up in Shanghai, Pudong was very poor. It is now a symbol of China’s open door policy.”主办这次巡游的是Trip.com集团，首席执行官简·孙告诉她的全球客人：“我在上海长大的时候，浦东非常贫穷。它现在是中国开放政策的象征。
Pudong sparkles in sync as she speaks. Lasers shoot up the side of a skyscraper. The towers of commerce, some colour-changing and some crystalline in appearance, are a showcase of China’s high ambition.她说话的时候，浦东同步地闪闪发光。激光从摩天大楼的侧面射出。这些商业大厦，有的色彩变幻，有的晶莹剔透，展示了中国的雄心壮志。
Another night, I step into the 1930s at the Fairmont Peace Hotel (20 Nanjing Road East). Built in 1929 by Baghdadi Jews – migrants who settled in port cities along trade routes – the hotel’s bar is loved for its veteran jazz musicians. Their average age hovers around 80.另一个晚上，我在费尔蒙和平饭店（南京东路20号）步入了20世纪30年代。建于1929年的巴格达犹太人-移民谁定居在港口城市沿着贸易路线-酒店的酒吧是喜爱其资深爵士音乐家。他们的平均年龄在80岁左右。
A singer in heels appears, accompanied by tender jazz on a saxophone, and this is Shanghai at its most irresistible.一个穿着高跟鞋的歌手出现了，伴随着萨克斯管上柔和的爵士乐，这是上海最令人无法抗拒的。
Outside, amid the throng of Chinese tourists on Nanjing Road, it feels good to walk alone on the pedestrianised street and feel securely obscure. 在外面，在南京路上的中国游客中，独自走在街道上感觉很好，感觉安全的模糊。
The shops sell all manner of snacks, including barbecued pork morsels that can be vacuum-packed to cart home. Singapore’s bak kwa purveyor, Bee Cheng Hiang, has a presence here too. 这些商店出售各种各样的小吃，包括可以真空包装回家的叉烧。新加坡的巴克kwa供应商Bee Cheng Hiang也在这里开展业务。
I also spy a Lego flagship store, a Lancome pop-up, and what’s this Waiting Hotel? It turns out to be a cosy three-star hotel for business travellers.我还发现了一家乐高旗舰店，一家兰蔻弹出式商店，还有这个等待酒店是什么？事实证明，这是一家适合商务旅客的舒适三星级酒店。
Nanjing Road is a shopaholic’s central, with some places closing near midnight. From Bottega Veneta to Daimaru, from Sephora to Swatch, and from Apple to Huawei, the world’s merchants are clustered here, now and always.南京路是购物狂的中心，有些地方在午夜关闭。从Bottega Veneta到Daimaru，从Sephora到Swatch，从Apple到Huawei，世界各地的商家都聚集在这里，现在和永远。